Choosing your engagement ring, you’ll probably pay most attention to the diamond or gemstone. But the metal you pick for your ring might be equally important, especially when considering the beautiful designs available. Because for this most precious of purchases, there’s a little more to consider than good looks alone.
White metals platinum , white gold and silver are all popular choices for jewellery, thanks to their beautiful colour, hypoallergenic nature, and ability to be crafted into stunning designs. But between the three there are some significant differences - which we’re here to explore.
The differences between platinum, white gold, and silver
Despite some similarities in how they might look, platinum, white gold, and silver are fundamentally different metals.
Platinum is a naturally white metal that holds up well with wear and is resistant to tarnish. The hardness of platinum makes it hard to work with, so it is alloyed with another metal, such as ruthenium or palladium, to improve its workability. 950 platinum, the main choice for jewellery, is 95% pure platinum and 5% alloy. Diamonds set in platinum engagement rings are highly sought after for their durability and timeless elegance.
Gold, on the other hand, has the opposite problem. Pure gold is too soft to be suitable for everyday jewellery, so is usually alloyed with other metals to make it stronger. 18ct gold, the most popular choice for fine and engagement jewellery, is composed of 25% other metals with 75% gold. The chosen mix of metals for white gold changes naturally yellow gold into a creamy white shade.
Silver is a beautiful material for handcrafting jewellery, as it is naturally soft and easy to work. The best choice for jewellery is 925 sterling silver, with 7.5% added metals, usually copper, and 92.5% pure silver.
The different compositions of the platinum, white gold, and silver alloys give each one slightly different properties - and that gives you a choice.
Durability and hardness - platinum vs white gold vs silver
Platinum
Platinum is the winner here, as its exceptional hardness and density make it less susceptible to scratches or dents . A platinum setting is also highly secure, even for small melee stones. Additionally, platinum rings offer an extra sparkle, enhancing their brilliance and eye-catching allure.
White Gold
White gold isn’t as robust as platinum but is still a beautiful option for jewellery. The additional metals in the 18ct alloy give the white gold strength, making it a choice that will stand the test of time. Its sophisticated and graceful appearance makes white gold an elegant choice for those seeking timeless beauty.
Silver
Silver, however, is not appropriately durable for everyday pieces in a fine jewellery style. Being softer and more susceptible to scratches and wear, silver is less suitable for a piece of jewellery like an engagement or wedding ring. While chunky silver pieces can withstand daily wear, a finer piece might become misshapen or damaged more easily. A stone set in silver is also less secure, as claws can become bent or damaged more easily if caught or knocked.
Looking beautiful, forever
The beautiful white colour of platinum, white gold and silver gives them almost universal appeal. So you want to know that your ring will have that same cool shine in the years to come. Our collection offers a wide range of designs, ensuring you find the perfect style to match your personal preferences.
Platinum
Platinum has a naturally white hue, so maintains its cool, pale-grey colour without any extra help. Platinum can become dull with wear, but a quick re-polish will return it to its brand-new glory. The re-polish also enhances the ring's sparkle, adding allure and elegance to any occasion.
White Gold
Most white gold will be given a coat of rhodium plating to make it truly white. This brilliant coating can wear away over time, revealing the gold’s warmer undertones. Many people love the slightly warm and creamy hue of white gold, and are happy with an unplated piece - but if you love a true, bright white look be prepared you may need to re-plate your ring every few years.
At Harper Tait, we use a high-palladium alloy to maximise the white tone of the metal. It makes it less apparent when the rhodium plating fades, extending the time needed before you may wish to replate. White gold rings are a timeless choice, embodying classic beauty and enduring appeal.
Silver
Silver also has a beautiful, naturally white hue, and does not need to be plated. However, silver is prone to tarnish, and requires regular polishing to maintain its shine. If tarnish develops in crevices, such as settings, it can be harder to remove. You have to be more careful when wearing or storing silver pieces in order to avoid damage.
A future heirloom
When it comes to which metal lasts longer, platinum once again has the edge. Thanks to its density and resistance to wear, platinum rings can last a lifetime. However, with a little care and maintenance, an 18ct white gold ring can also be a lifelong companion. Knowing the recipient's ring size is crucial for a future heirloom, ensuring it fits perfectly and can be cherished for generations.
To understand why platinum beats white gold, we consider displacement. When a piece of platinum is scratched or polished, no metal is lost. Instead, the metal is simply displaced elsewhere. When gold is scratched, a little of the metal is left on the object that scratched it. This means platinum can be polished countless times without losing any volume, while a white gold ring will lose a little metal every time it is damaged or polished. This is why you sometimes see antique or heirloom gold rings that have become thin around the band.
Choosing a reasonable depth and weight for your 18ct ring will help future-proof your choice. Although we have some beautifully delicate designs, we don’t make very thin or shallow rings, as we only make pieces that will stand the test of time.
However lovely silver may be for lifestyle jewellery, it will not hold up as well to daily wear as a platinum or white gold ring. For a piece you plan to wear forever - and hopefully pass on one day - choose a precious metal such as gold or platinum.
A choice of cost
When selecting your engagement ring, budget is often a determining factor. We know how expensive weddings get, and we understand budgets!
Both platinum and white gold are significantly more expensive than silver.
While the cost of metal fluctuates, platinum will almost always cost more than white gold due to its higher density. A ring in platinum will weigh more than the exact same ring in white gold, and so the increased amount of metal raises the price.
Although the difference in costs can be great, choosing an engagement or wedding ring is a scenario in which the cheapest option is unlikely to be the best value.
Silver may be the most budget-friendly choice, but could end up costing more to upkeep over time due to its propensity to tarnish, and the likelihood of needing a repair or replacement in future.
If you’re choosing between white gold or platinum, you should also consider the lifetime value. For example, the cost of maintaining a white gold ring through regular rhodium re-plating may eventually outweigh the initial savings compared to a platinum ring. Of course, Harper Tait customers need not worry about that - with our Lifetime Guarantee , rhodium plating is always on us!
Additionally, rose gold is a popular option in jewellery, especially for engagement rings, as it complements various skin tones and offers a unique aesthetic.
How we can help!
Simple reach out on info@harpertait.com and we'll help demystify your options. Otherwise, explore our signature collection of white gold rings and platinum rings here.
